No Shortcuts to the Top
My Quest to Climb the World's Eight-Thousand Meter Peaks
Random House, October 2006
For eighteen years Ed Viesturs pursued climbing’s holy grail: to become the first American to stand atop the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks, without the aid of bottled oxygen. But NO SHORTCUTS TO THE TOP is as much about the man as it is about his stunning quest. As Viesturs recounts the stories of his most harrowing climbs, he reveals a man torn between the flat, safe world he and his loved ones share and the majestic and deadly places where only he can go.
A preternaturally cautious climber who once turned back 300 feet from the top of Everest, but who would not shrink from a peak (Annapurna) known to claim the life of one climber for every two who reached its summit, Viesturs has an unyielding motto, “Reaching the summit is optional. Getting down is mandatory.” It is with this philosophy that he vividly describes fatal errors in judgment made by his fellow climbers as well as a few of his own close calls and gallant rescues. And for the first time, he details his own pivotal and heroic role in the 1996 Everest disaster made famous in Jon Krakauer’s INTO THIN AIR.
Besides the raw excitement of Viesturs’s odyssey, NO SHORTCUTS TO THE TOP is leavened with many funny moments revealing the camaraderie between climbers. It is more than the first full account of one of the staggering accomplishments of our time; it is a portrait of a brave and devoted family man and his beliefs that shaped this most perilous and magnificent pursuit.
“Ed Viesturs is not merely one of our strongest mountaineers; he’s also one of the most remarkable. He’s demonstrated that it’s possible to climb the world’s highest peaks without taking reckless chances, and without sacrificing one’s honor or integrity. He has never hesitated to help other climbers in need, even when it meant putting himself in danger or sacrificing his own opportunity to achieve a summit. Ed, simply put, is a genuine American hero.”
—Jon Krakauer
“From the drama of the peaks, to the struggle of making a living as a professional climber, to the basic how-tos of life at 26,000 feet, No Shortcuts to the Top is fascinating reading.”
—Aron Ralston, author of Between a Rock and a Hard Place